White waiting out the winter, it's the perfect time to explore root vegetables. They鈥檙e not the pristine beauties associated with summer produce. They鈥檙e often oversized, gnarly or otherwise oddly-shaped 鈥 more something associated with the diet of trolls. But they鈥檙e rich, aromatic and earthy with complex flavour profiles, and their friendly versatility 鈥 used in salads, soups and stews 鈥 helps us through the chilly weather.
We鈥檙e all familiar with carrots, beets, potatoes, onions and garlic 鈥 root vegetables all 鈥 but consider rutabaga, yams, daikon, turnips, parsnips and celery root, a few of the unsung heroes of the dinner table, all worth 鈥榬ooting鈥 for.
A fun way to explore their diversity is to roast them all together, a dish I call the root vegetable rendezvous. I mix parsnips, turnips, potatoes, sweet potatoes, rutabaga, carrots, onions and garlic, chunk them up in even sizes, toss with a bit of olive oil and herbs 鈥 I use thyme 鈥 and roast at 425 degrees. I amp up the flavours by laying chicken thighs on top for an exquisite dinner. The next day, the leftover vegetables make a hearty soup with a bit of stock 鈥 you can also use water 鈥 pureed, and topped with cheesy croutons.
There is so much one can do with carrots. Roasted and tossed with brown butter and toasted hazelnuts take it next level. Or keep it simple, as in my favourite winter soup. I pair quick-cooking red lentils (masoor dal) with grated carrots, stock, toasted cumin and a hit of dried chile. You have a nourishing and satisfying soup within 30 minutes. Older carrots are perfect for a Moroccan-inspired salad. Peel and chunk up carrots, and boil or steam until tender. A quick dressing of olive oil, wine vinegar, cumin, harissa, garlic and a bit of ginger rounds out this satisfying dish. Better still, turn it into a smooth puree in the blender. Garnish with a few olives and serve as a dip with bread or bits of raw vegetables.
Red beets provide a colourful backdrop for salad. I prefer to roast them in their skins first before peeling, then slice. I used mine recently in a salad, tossed in a mustard vinaigrette. I added arugula 鈥 miraculously still growing in my garden! 鈥 with a sprinkling of toasted walnuts for textural crunch, and a spoon of whipped ricotta. Shavings of Asiago as a substitute would not be out of the question here either.
Parsnips and potatoes are soulmates. Cooked together and mashed, they provide a creamy-starchy-sweet backdrop for any roasted protein. Lamb shanks for example.
Rutabagas get short shrift. They鈥檙e not the prettiest site to behold. Also called swedes, they鈥檙e mild raw, but develop a slight sweet richness when roasted. You can mash them up with plenty of butter and cream; roasted with a drizzle of maple syrup and black pepper; or roasted along with apples and garlic and olive oil. Rutabagas also shine in couscous, in tandem with carrots and parsnips. The warming flavours of ginger, turmeric, cinnamon and star anise add incredible depth to this stew.
The key is to be brave and imaginative, and explore these earthly delights.
鈥⑩赌⑩赌
In local food news, we鈥檙e sad to bid adios to Israel Alvarez and Mariana Alvarado, the dynamic couple running the Marmalade Cat Caf茅 at the Okanagan College Penticton Campus. Citing snafus with their immigration lawyer 鈥 and $25,000 out of pocket 鈥 and not having their license with the caf茅 renewed, their quest for permanent residency is in the lurch.
鈥淚 saw myself living here,鈥 says Alvarez, 鈥渂ut I feel like I鈥檓 being pushed to return home.鈥 (They hope to return in a year and try again, and we hope they do.)
Hailing from Puerto Vallarta, the couple has worked hard since arriving in 2020, in various jobs ranging from agriculture and welding to cleaning, catering and management. As well, Alvarez has taught Spanish at the college, where I was one of his students.
He is a patient and gifted teacher, and also makes a mean salsa! Their last day at the Caf茅 is Feb. 20, but they鈥檙e holding a Fiesta Mexicana on Friday, Feb. 7 from 4:30-8 p.m., with a classic three-course Mexican menu of tortilla soup, chilies rellenos and churros. Find tickets through Eventbrite under penticton/fiesta-mexicana, or go directly to the caf茅 during the week to purchase direct.
Hasta pronto!
